Used Volvo S80 I: dangerous cup rust and exotic electrics
The first generation S80, S60 and XC90 are the latest models made by the Swedes as part of their technological independence. Then came the "Ford" era, and then the Chinese. Is there still an S80 in decent condition on the secondary or has the model already entered the age when normal everyday use is no longer possible due to mileage and old age? In the first part, we will deal with the body, interior and electrics, and in the second – with the chassis, engines and transmission.
Technics
Volvo S80 became the first machine on the new Volvo P2 platform of its own Swedish design. The roots of the solutions are visible in the Volvo ECC concept from the early 90s, and the design of Peter Haubery became the hallmark of the brand for a long time, changing the “suitcase" look. By the way, the S60 was made a little earlier, but the design had to be “pulled” onto a larger “flagship” model, which was released first.
With the release of the S80, they were in a hurry, so the old units were temporarily installed on the new platform, and already 2 years after the launch, all the equipment was seriously updated.
Volvo S60 2000-2009
The P2 platform is unique in its own way. For 1998, this is a very advanced solution both in terms of modularity and in terms of the designs of its individual elements. The degree of scaling made it possible to create on it a very large crossover XC90, and a relatively compact S60, to get options with front and all-wheel drive, with five-, six- and eight-cylinder engines under the hood. There is a very successful climate system, and advanced electronics, which made it possible to keep the cars up to date for a very long time, and good suspensions – MacPherson strut in front and a multi-link in the back.
In terms of passive safety, Volvo, as usual, was on top. In this generation, the cars received a more advanced side impact protection system, a very powerful interior cage, a set of airbags with curtains and a knee airbag with multi-stage deployment, as well as seats that insure the neck in rear impacts, and many minor interior improvements to improve injury prevention.. The body showed excellent results in crash tests, since the Swedes tested the cars on a very wide program, including falling on the roof and impacts with especially small overlap, which will only become fashionable after 15 years.
Although the next generation of the Volvo S80 shared the EUCD platform with the Ford Mondeo, the P2 platform didn’t go anywhere. It was subsequently upgraded in terms of electronics, renamed the D3 and produced full-size sedans and crossovers on it in the USA until 2019. We have a well-known Explorer V on this cart – even the suspension arms are extremely similar to parts from the S80, not to mention the power structure of the body.
Well, the S80 I itself is strictly a sedan, the body is completely steel with the exception of the hood. Five- and six-cylinder engines are located transversely in front. Moreover, the “sixes” could only be put in this way in combination with a 4-speed automatic transmission GM, which has a very interesting layout. Nominally, the arrangement of the units is in-line, but in fact the entire automatic transmission is located behind the engine, which reduces the length of the power module, allowing it to be placed across. Five-cylinder cars have a more traditional Aisin gearbox and manual gearbox, there are already no “tricks” with the layout.
Most cars have front-wheel drive, but the 2.5T version after restyling also has a full drive with a third-generation Haldex clutch. Interestingly, the body of the all-wheel drive versions does not differ, only some elements of the rear suspension and a tank. All engines, except for the diesel 2.5 before restyling, are Volvo’s own design from the Modular Engine series of the first and second generations. Diesel 2.5 was taken from commercial VW, but after 2001 it was also replaced with engines of its own design.
Timeline
August 1998 Model sales started. Six-cylinder engines 2.8T 272 hp and 2.9 204 hp with a 4-speed automatic transmission GM, or a five-cylinder 2.0T 163 hp with 5-speed manual gearbox. The body is only a sedan.
February 1999 Simpler versions appear with a 2.4-liter atmospheric engine in versions of 140 and 170 hp. and with a 2.5D turbodiesel 140 hp All motors can be equipped with a manual gearbox or a 4-speed Aisin automatic transmission.
February-March 2000. Automatic transmission update for all cars with five-cylinder engines, except for diesel. Instead of a 4-speed automatic transmission, a 5-speed one was installed. The appearance of a supercharged engine 2.4T 200 hp All engines have been updated, they comply with the Euro-3 standard, there are changes in power, attachments, etc. The 2.0T version received a power of 180 hp, the 2.9 engine in the new version develops 196 hp, the 2.8 T6 engine with the same power received a different dimension of the piston group and volume.
November 2001 The appearance of a diesel engine of its own design. It replaces the Volkswagen 2.5D with two versions, the 2.4D 130 hp. and D5 with 163 hp. The older motor is combined with both a manual transmission and a five-speed Aisin automatic transmission.
March 2003 Model restyling. Cosmetic changes to the body, including new headlights, mirrors, grille. Interior changes. Replacing the 2.4T motor with a more powerful 2.5T 210 hp, as well as abandoning the 2.0T motors. The appearance of an all-wheel drive modification with a 2.5t engine.
Spring 2006. The appearance of the second generation S80, the discontinuation of the first generation.
Body
External panels
Volvo cars are traditionally considered stainless. But I have bad news for you: time does not spare anyone, and it is very easy to find a rusty S80. And it won’t necessarily be a first production car – even on 2006 models, corrosion is easy to find if you know where to look.
Damage is usually not visible to the eye. But it is worth inspecting carefully the rear arches, the upper edge of the windshield, and sometimes the edge of the trunk lid. There is often a little corrosion there, more recent cars may still have native paint and a minimum of chips, and dorestyling has a repair color or fringe. The junction of the wing and the lining of the windshield frame is also worth examining carefully, rust can be found under the molding. Look at the door frames, there is the same trouble as on the S60: the inner seam is depressurized, it is not very noticeable, but it is difficult to eliminate. It’s easier to change the door.
In general, even the outside inspection must be carried out carefully. Many cars were poorly looked after, and repainting with "peeling" of paint along with zinc often leads to the fact that after five years, instead of point defects, the entire arches corrode. This is especially true for pre-styling, since until 2003 the paint on the cars burned out badly in the sun, and they were completely repainted for cosmetic purposes. Along the way, the painters collected all the mistakes they could.
Be sure to open the doors and take a closer look at the thresholds. Most cars have paint bubbling at the junction of the arch and the plastic lining at the back – this means that the threshold is rusting inside. Sometimes in the openings of the front doors in the lower part there are traces of a similar disaster. Well, the lower edge of the front fender, if you look closely, has also often begun to rust.
The degree of threshold damage can only be determined by cutting off the outer layer of metal, but since dirt can accumulate under the plastic lining for years, and washing everything without disassembly is unrealistic, for many owners threshold corrosion is at an advanced stage, when not only the outer threshold has rusted, but both amplifier inside, especially in the back. Considering that on Volvo parts of complex shape and welded together at many points, it is very difficult to restore everything qualitatively.
Visible corrosion of the side doors is already coming across, and this is a bad sign. As a rule, cars with visible rust do not have thresholds for a long time.
Bottom
For cars before restyling, the general condition is in most cases tolerable. There is a lot of surface rust in the rear arches, if they were not regularly anticorrosive, there are no serious damages on the bottom, but in the area of the gas tank and the trunk floor, corrosion is already attacking the seams and brackets left without mastic protection. However, the brackets and sheet elements are made of rather thick steel, and the supporting elements of the body are made of even thicker. The seams are covered with a good layer of sealant, in most cases it is still intact.
Through corrosion in the rear arches and under the floor of the trunk comes across mainly in places where dirt accumulates.
The really problematic elements are the sills and front suspension cups mentioned above. The condition of the threshold can only be assessed by removing the plastic trim. But corrosion at the upper attachment points is noticeable if you bend or remove the decorative lining of the openings. There is usually rust in places where there are recesses for fasteners. Depending on the operating conditions, damage can be minor or already a serious problem. But the main trouble is inside the threshold and from below. Dirt between plastic and metal is washed out very badly, provoking corrosion. There are still mud pockets in the arches behind the lockers, and if it doesn’t hurt much in the front arch, then in the back it’s much more vulnerable. Through corrosion of the inner arch into the threshold or the threshold itself from below under the plastic lining occurs regularly. Finding a car without this problem is possible, but difficult. By the way, the problem almost does not correlate with the external state of the paintwork, for externally excellent cars in the rear part of the threshold there may be through holes above the level of plastic. And the cars before restyling have absolutely whole thresholds with a general burnt and “sad” external state of the paintwork.
Under the hood, the problem is more serious than with the thresholds. Even the most elegant cars of recent years of production can be found corrosion and even holes on the suspension cups and the engine compartment mudguard. In the risk zone, mainly the first years after restyling, 2003-2004, they have through rust or traces of “treatment” here, and earlier and later cars can show normal arches without signs of damage both outside and inside.
The problem area is the junction of the cup with the upper side member of the body and with the front mudguard of the engine compartment. It is unlikely that it will be possible to quietly “treat” the trouble without drilling the entire cup, so look carefully at the spot welding seams, remove the expansion tank and check the body under it. On the left side, it will not work to remove the engine switching unit, but you should definitely shine a flashlight. Any trace of rust is serious.
Corrosion from the inside of the cup, under the wing, at the junction with the locker is not so scary, but if the seam sealant has come off, then this also promises big repairs. There is thick metal on the suspension cups, on restyling it is also two-layer, and if there is already corrosion, then you will not remove it by cleaning and painting. There are enthusiasts who drill out all the damaged elements and change the cup with the upper spar to "donor", but any patches are all a temporary solution. Well, a large-scale repair near the panel with a VIN number can promise many adventures with the expertise of the traffic police. In general, if the car has cup corrosion, then you should not take it – in any case, you will not have a long and happy life with it.
Additional attention should be paid to the overhead niche. Here, the valves of the drainage channels are clogged, and over time, water begins to accumulate. The trouble is that literally a little higher is the seal of the SEM block – the central power distribution hub for machines on the P2 platform. The stuffing box loses its tightness over time and begins to leak directly onto the unit itself in the cabin. Water can also come from the wiring box, which is located here on top of the engine shield, and water from the windshield and through the water deflector flows directly into it. There, it damages the wiring over time – the insulation is not eternal, but at the same time finds its way into the salon. So experienced owners fill the box with silicone grease, clean the drains, remove the valves, and try to regularly change or lubricate the wiring gland.
In general, water in the cabin is a fairly common story. In addition to leaks, the cause may be the drainage of the air conditioner, it can become clogged over time, and water will flow into the cabin. Well, heater leaks happen to everyone. O-rings fail, or the radiator itself may leak, it corrodes quite quickly here if the antifreeze is not changed. I am glad that the floors dry well – under the carpet a large space is occupied by the pipes of the ventilation system, and floor corrosion on the S80 is rare. But it still doesn’t hurt to check the status.
Body equipment
Like the S60, the bumper mounting here leaves much to be desired: both front and rear sag regularly. At the front at the same time breaks the petticoat. Fog lights are a consumable, it is better not to turn them on unnecessarily. The headlights themselves are quite strong, but even pre-styling glass ones are prone to rubbing and cracking, and the “wipers” on them have a very small gearbox resource. It sours easily, but is expensive. On restyling, the headlights are already with a plastic cap, they are prone to rubbing, but can be polished. But the lenses in them burn out quickly: if the headlights are still “native”, then they will probably not shine, you need to change the lens or restore the reflector.
A special problem is the lock lock motors, they fail easily and naturally. The motor itself is cheap, but the work of disassembling the door and the motor itself costs money. Yes, and not everywhere the castle will be repaired, and used ones are already in short supply. Window regulators suffer from wear of guide rollers and falling off front glass seals. If there is a distortion or jerks, it is better not to pull, but to replace the rollers. Fortunately, they cost a penny, and the work is well mastered by specialized services.
| Detail | original price | The price of the original | Price of non-original 2 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Body parts | |||
| Headlight | 23 881 | T&C 6 544 | Polcar 9 517 |
| Headlight xenon | 51 718 | Polcar 67 390 | |
| Windshield | 26 892 | Pilkington 15 153 | KMK 9 877 |
| Front wing | 31 564 | Jesse Lai 19 669 | Blitz 19 188 |
| Front bumper | 43 819 | Flash 22 564 | Lucid 15 540 |
| Hood | 53 804 | Not available |
Salon
The quality of the finish is very good, and there are no particular problems with the wear resistance of the seats and steering wheel. When you leave it works fine for long hundreds of thousands of kilometers. Another thing is that the mileage of cars is now 300+ or even 500+, while many of them have not been properly looked after for many years, and leather and wood require constant attention.
Of course, there are typical breakdowns like armrest locks, broken inner cups of door handles, worn volume knobs and a power window unit, and the plastic of the center console is scratched a little here. The main pain is dashboard breakdowns: their displays fail, the BC mode switching does not work, the clock rushes, and the repair is quite complicated. There are failures of the steering column lock module and failures in the contact group of the ignition switch and the immobilizer antenna.
The climate is quite successful, however, not everyone knows how to handle the automatic climate, besides, sometimes the mixing damper thrusts fail, but these are trifles. The air conditioner is conditionally eternal: if the car has not been beaten, the radiators are in place, the pipes have not corroded, then it will work. The most common cause of failure is a broken wiring to the clutch or pressure sensors, or a leak due to corrosion of pipes in the engine compartment. Trite because of the dirt on the shelves of the anthers of the engine compartment (and often because of their through corrosion).
Electrician
The most annoying problem is, of course, the flooded SEM block. It was improved several times – the first options were not airtight. Later options are definitely more reliable, the chances of burning the car after rain or simply not starting are much less. It does not hurt to check the condition, but without disassembling and removing it is difficult to do. Just turn everything on and check. At the same time, it is worth touching the wires and the carpet under the unit, checking for moisture.
Of the less global troubles: cars before restyling did not have the most successful throttle valves from Magneti Marelli with failed position sensors. The ABS block is also problematic, most of all the hassle with restyled blocks with ESP. And the electronic controller of the radiator fan breaks down, and the resource of the fan itself is small, after one and a half hundred thousand it is better to change the brushes and bearings. All parts are of a rather specific design, it is difficult or impossible to find analogues, there are very few non-original electrics, Volvo ordered exclusive parts that are not found on other brands and models. Of course, all the elements are repaired, but the same throttle valves are difficult to repair – you need to saw the body. And you can replace it with a normal Bosch one only together with the control unit and wiring alteration.
The owner of the S80 will still need an electrician who knows these machines, because there are not many, but a lot of smaller failures. Until 2005, electrically, the cars were gradually improved, but they were not brought to the ideal. It would be nice for an economical owner to have his own clone of the VIDA dealer scanner and be able to handle it so as not to ride every few months to the service.
There is always a job for a specialist: there are a lot of not very logical relays located outside the main units, but responsible for powering engine control units, there are problems with soldering many electronics units, from the dashboard to the radio amplifier. In general, the better the equipment, the more trouble.
Subtotal
The quality of the Volvo bodywork is quite high, so there is a chance to find a stainless car, but you need to monitor the condition of the iron and constantly invest a little in anticorrosive and local work. Nevertheless, the age of the machines is already very solid.
As for the electrics, you just need a specialized Volvo service – those who have been working with these machines for more than a decade, as a rule, know by heart all the potential problems and their solutions. In the next part, we will study typical problems of the chassis, motors and transmission.